Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Helsinki, Finland

I guess this blog should have been titled Spain, Russia and Finland as I planned to spend at least one day in Helsinki before flying home. Too late now. :) I'll make sure Finland gets its due here though.

Despite my frantic boarding this morning, the train ride excellent. The stewardesses and customs agents were nice and multilingual. Right off of the train I was greeted by Helsinki information people handing out free maps. A few minutes later I was able to talk to an agent at an city information desk and get clear help on how to get to the airport, stow my luggage for the day at the train station and find an ATM. The people here in Helsinki are really nice people. . .of the Russians I encountered many of them were nice too but not outgoing. Expecting a smile might be pushing it. Here in Helsinki I get a smile and very clear English. I almost feel bad that I don't know any Suomi or Suoma (see I don't even know what to call it, I know it's not Finnish).

I found a one day tour online and decided to follow it since I hadn't really researched what to see. If you're interested in all the details the link is here http://wikitravel.org/en/Helsinki_itineraries  After stowing my luggage, my first stop was the Espanadi Park, a small slice of green belt of what was once bourgeoisie stone houses and the outskirts of the city, where many of the poor lived in wooden houses. Once a gated strolling place it is, of course now open to everyone. The city takes good care of it as everything looks healthy, green with planter beds adding color. There is a restaurant at the end for super fancy people who want to each lunch for 19 € or more. . .no thanks. I did stand a watch a alt rock band do their thing for an hour in the afternoon. It sounded good, if you like the Franz Ferdinand/Blur sound. Don't ask me for their name, I am sure it's super complicated with circles over the "A"s and umlauts over the "U"s.

Next, was the Senate square with the Lutheran cathedral looming over. Once I reached the square I had a cup or two of tea in this cool little cafe called, Cafe Engel. The tea was more than it should have cost, something like 3 or 4€ (I read somewhere that food prices are more expensive in Helsinki, and I guess I am cheap) but I enjoyed the atmosphere. Fully charged, I walked past the statue of Alexander  II of Russia (erected here when Finland belonged to Russia) and up the steep steps to the Lutheran cathedral and check out its interior. Inside, the cathedral was plain but also made of quality materials--which is typical of reformation era churches which wanted to distance themselves from the excessive luxury with which the Catholic church used its money in those times (e.g. elaborate Baroque designs, gilded everything, precious stones, neck chains with dollar signs on them. . .wait, take that last part back ;) Statues of Martin Luther, Philip Melanchthon and some other guy I didn't recognize adorned three of the four inside corners of the church with the last corner being the raised pulpit.

Uspensky Cathedral was an interesting contrast to the Lutheran Cathedral. If I read the Russian plaque right, Uspensky was commissioned by Nicholas the I or Alexander II and had been completed by a later Tsar. It's outside decoration is what you would expect of a Russian or Greek Orthodox Church. The interior was painted with vivid colors depicting various saints and apostles whose names were written in either Old Slavonic or a script so fancy I can't read it. 

   Uspensky Cathedral


Just a minute or two walk away was the Market square which had lots of great arts and crafts like homemade jewelry, reindeer antler bottle openers or cork screws (really, you could get just about anything made of antler), postcards, magnets, the usual souvenir stuff. Right next to the bay, it also offered a lot of fresh sea food. For lunch I had a salmon plate that changed my life. It was seasoned salmon with a kind of dill garlic sauce, boiled melon balled potatoes mixed with some squash, carrots and a little side salad. Even though it was 10€ (here I go again) it was well worth the price for fresh food.

    Mmmmmm. Salmon


After l lunch I leisurely walked to The Church in the Rock which was well. . .you guessed it, again, a church cathedral in a rock. The center part of the feeling had copper in the middle. The acoustics were pretty good but not enough to hush up a large group from Asia that spoke as if they were outside despite signs in multiple languages to be quiet. 

    The Church in the Rock

The last significant things I did following that was shop Stockmanns and a few other stores a bit an get a great view of the city from the top of a hotel building (one of the tallest in the city). After that I simply walked to new places, sat in scenic park benches or revisit old areas. Helsinki would be a nice place to bring the family if we ever get a chance to get back here. With the exception of me nearly missing my train, it has been an easy, relaxed day. I had plenty of time to see things and even sit and sip tea. Here is a low res shot from my iPad. Gorgeous huh?

   Helsinki


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